I wasn’t really in a rush this morning because I only had 14km to Lires and I assumed it was fairly flat. My plan was to check out the fishing museum that I learned about after reading up on the Castile San Carlos. I discovered it is now a museum about fishing which normally wouldn’t be of interest to me, but I read raving reviews on Trip Advisor and decided I would stick around town until the museum opened at 11am, spend less than an hour there and then be on my way to Lires.
After a late-ish breakfast, I made my way to the Castile and got there 5 minutes before it was to open. No sign of anyone. 5 minutes after 11 still no sign of anyone. Just as I took a closer look at the sign posted with the hours and realized the museum is now, in October, closed on Mondays, a man walked up and opened the gates. He explained the museum is closed today and said I should return tomorrow. I told him I wouldn’t be here and that I really wanted to see the museum. He kind of looked around as if to make sure no one saw him and he waived me in.
He is Manuello, the curator of the museum and the person all the Trip Advisor reviews raved about. We quickly established that his limited English was far better than my piquito Spanish and he proceeded to fascinate me for 30 minutes. Manuello is so passionate about what he was sharing you couldn’t help but be excited about it too! Kind of like when you get a personal tour of the Duck Decoys at Shelburne Museum from Kory Rogers.
It was almost noon and I was ready to get on my 14km journey north toward Muxia. It is 28km to Muxia so I split it into two 14km day’s staying over in the small village of Lires.
What a lovely walk! After I figured out how to get out of Fisterra and I was sure I was headed to Muxia and not Cee the route was clearly marked and path was easy walking. It actually reminded me of walking in Vermont in the fall. Except every now and then I would look left and catch a glimpse of the ocean!!
It seemed to take forever to get to Lires, but then I am not used to walking so late in the day. I really enjoyed the solitude and the scenery. It was a peaceful walk with no services along the way, but also no people and no graffiti! A perfect way to end my Camino after the impersonal final 5-days from Sarria to Santiago.