It was tough leaving O Cebreiro. It is a special place and probably one of my favorite on the Camino. It was beautiful weather when I was there and still, when I woke up this morning the wind was howling and it just felt raw when I went outside. It is the first morning I have worn my lightweight puffy jacket.
But, the jacket was off before the first hour was up. I generate massive amounts of heat when I exert energy and that I was doing! Everyone else was still bundled up two or three hours into walking and I was in my shirt sleeves.
The bulk of the day was spent traversing the spine of the mountain and then at the very end we descended nearly 600 meters – the downhills are always the worst!
The views throughout the day were beautiful as we walked along a meandering path that often made me feel like I was in Vermont.
I had only had a really bad packaged pastry when I stopped for coffee around 10 so around noon I stopped for a jamon bocadillo and an Aquarius. As is usually the case, I ate half the sandwich and took the other half to go.
The downhill was far from the worst and the views were spectacular. I could stop taking pictures.
I finally arrived in Triacastella shortly after 3. Then I had to climb up the hill to Casa Olga where Olga was out on the street waiting for me. The sheep helped guide me to her house.
I took a short nap and headed back down the hill for dinner. I had an OK pilgrim menu and was entertained by three cats as I ate (for many people, I know this would be a huge turn off!).
Dinner was unremarkable, but dessert was delicious. It was some of the fresh O Cebreiro cheese with membreillo and honey.
The Mystery Bus
Several times throughout the day a huge “tourisimo” coach bus was sitting as I completed a section of the trail. I believe this is the same group of Canadian “Peregrinos” who we saw a few days ago. In order to provide exposure to the Camino without overtaxing the guests, travel company’s run what I will call “Taste of Pilgrimage” tours. I have seen the bus stop are key points, drop off a load of pilgrims and then pick them up 5-6 kilometers later.
I checked out the local church on my way back to Olga’s instead of the cemetery being in a separate part of town, it is right at the church. Another surprise is that all of the burial sites are above ground as you would see in New Orleans
Reflections: A Hard Rain’s Gonna Fall
It was inevitable; I could not escape the Camino without some rain stories. For the past week rain has been in the forecast for Sunday and here we are in Saturday night.
I will be honest, I am shipping my little day pack ahead to Sarria where I will be tomorrow night. This plan reduces the weight of my pack a little and also hopefully provides me with dry clothes at the end of the day.
I haven’t been able to train much in the rain so this is new territory for me. Some Pilgrims actually say they enjoy walking in the rain. I am hoping that will happen for me!