Today kicked my butt! Toughest stage yet, but a real milestone.

After walking out of Pamplona, our next big landmark was the Perigrino Sculpture at the top of the mountain range we had to cross.

It is iconic and I was washed over with emotions when I got there.

Prior to staring the assent there was a short break in a town for coffee and provisions and at one of my fellow Camino’s suggestions I took off my shoes. I didn’t want to because I didn’t think I could ever coax my foot back into the shoes.

Turns out, I didn’t need to! I had bought those nice TIVA’s yesterday in Pamplona to replace my shower shoes. My friend Christine has been wearing her sandals for the past few days and it is working for her so I thought I would give it a shot.

But, I need to get to bed. Tomorrow is a flat day and I promise an update for both days.

For now, let’s just say it is amazing and something everyone should do!

When I have heard about people hiking in sandals, I never imagined it would work for me, but desperate times call for desperate measures!!!! With socks (a definite fashion statement) the TEVA’s worked GREAT!! They saved my Camino.

So spending Saturday night in Pamplona wasn’t intentional, but wow, what luck. This town is pulsing with excitement and it is thrilling to be in the middle of it. But wait, you have to hear about my day first!

I think I have found my morning Camino groove. I get up around 6 and get coffee before 6:30 and I am on my way with the headlamp shining the way for me.

Lots of people get an early start to make sure they get a bed at their destination. For me, it reminds me of my morning training walks and I just love experiencing daybreak and the sunrise. It has nothing to do about racing to the finish.

This was my first real solo departure and I had to keep a close eye out for arrows. The LAST thing I wanted to do is have to retrace my steps because I made a wrong turn. Often the markings are clear, but not always. It keeps you alert!

I guess I should mention that I slept for 6 hours straight last night and it was wonderful! I finally felt refreshed and rested.

The first site upon leaving Zubiri was a huge mineral processing facility for mining and refining Magnesium.

Of course with my work experience being in manufacturing, I was fascinated by this huge facility. I can imagine not every pilgrim felt the same as I, but everyone stopped to take a picture. It is so much more interesting in the dark lit up so it looks like it is teaming with life than I am sure it looks during the day.

There was an uphill around the Magna Plant and at the top I stopped to peel off a layer alongside a woman I figured was Swedish. We said our hellos, bid a Buen Camino and she was on her way and I wasn’t far behind.

Some of the Camino paths are quite small and it is hard to believe that hundreds of people a day walk on them.

And sometimes it is so steep that stairs have been built to make the walking easier.

But usually people can walk side-by-side which is nice for talking and a little companionship.

Before 9am I walked into another beautiful town and then past an ancient monetary that has been restored.

I just had to marvel at some of the ancient buildings that have been standing for centuries and will stand for centuries more.

We passed a home with a variety of ducks who clearly had been trained by passing pilgrims that if they stand close to the fence line and look cute, they will be rewarded.

Throughout the region there are reminders that we are in Basque Country.

This culture is over 7 centuries old and spans 7 distinct provinces across the western Pyrenees in France and the northeastern part of Spain. The Basque don’t consider themselves French or Spanish; they are Basque with their own unique and difficult to learn language and to complicate things, each province has it’s own dialect.

You would think that living in Vermont I would have my fill of cow scenery, but not so!

Along the path I found a pair of sunglasses that had obviously been dropped by a pilgrim. I didn’t know what to do but reasoned that whomever lost them would not retrace her steps to find them so I picked them up and started asking every peregrina I saw if she lost her shades. It was a long shot and I expected I would drop them in the donation box at the Alburgue at the end of the day.

Just when I was needing a break, we came to the town of Zuriain and a bar! I got a bacon and cheese sandwich, a banana, an apple and a bag of nuts and dried fruit (thanks to my hiking coach Nancy Turner for calling me on the protein-deficient snacks I chose the day before). I washed down all but the nuts and half the sandwich with a Cafe Americano followed by an Orange Aquarius and was on my way.

I confidently headed back to the trail and then realized it was wrong and went back past the bar and up toward the road. I was lost, but didn’t want all the people at the bar to know so I tried to look like I knew what I was doing, but I didn’t. Another pilgrim was leaving at the same time. All I could tell was that he was Asian and he didn’t speak English and I didn’t speak whatever his language was. But some how we communicated enough to figured out we were going the right way and we walked together for at least 30 minutes.

It turns out he is Korean and somehow, with very few words, I learned that he is walking the Camino because he is very angry. He asked if I was walking it as a Christian and I explained that wasn’t why, but that I am walking to reflect on my first 60 years and think about my next 30. Noah and I navigated some tricky turns in the way and helped each other not get lost. It was quite remarkable.

We passed a memorial to a fallen pilgrim from El Paso, Texas and each placed a stone but the cross.

I lost Noah at another rest stop that was literally a highway rest area where pilgrims could prepare for a steep uphill.

But the payoff was worth it and in the distance we could see where we will be tomorrow at Alto Pedron famous for it’s windmills and the giant pilgrim sculpture.

I stopped at a donativo at a monetary that had fruit and snacks and water and had a banana.

The woman I stopped with early in the day when we peeled off some layers came by and I asked if she lost her sunglasses. Yes! She had! I gave them to her and she dubbed me her Camino Angel. It turns out she is from the Netherlands.

The outskirts of Pamplona came into sight and it was time to make a decision: scenic or the normal route into the city. I knew I was going to go the scenic route even though it was a bit longer. It was on a path in a park along the river that led into the city.

Everyone else walking with me at the time went the normal route. The scenic route was not well marked and soon I was losing confidence in where I was going. There were no pilgrims around so I did my best to follow my online maps.

Then from no where two pilgrims appeared and they too were unsure of where to go. They were from Brazil and were able to communicate with people on the street to confirm we were going the right way. With my non-existent Portuguese and their somewhat better but very limited English, we were able to communicate with each other and made our way into Pamplona.

Which happened to coincide with Ayna and others in my Camino family arriving at the exact same time from the other direction.

We found our alburgue and hit the shower.

I then headed out to find some sandals because my shower shoes were not working for “evening wear.”

The clerk in the Caminoteca store saw my toes and told me the sandals I needed and suggested I also get gel caps for my big toes. My feet were very happy tonight.

Pamplona

I need to get to sleep so let me just say, Go! This is an amazing city full of history and life. Here are some photos.

Reflections

Today I was someone’s Camino Angel. I didn’t do anything but connect someone with her sunglasses. A little common sense goes a long way in helping others. And small acts can mean the world to others.

Today I depended on three people to find my way on the Camino. We all had a common goal and that enabled us to work together even though very few words were exchanged.

Man, I am loving this!

I love getting an early start to the walking day as I did when training at home. Here in Spain the sun is now rising at 8am so that means a head lamp is necessary for the first hour or so when leaving before 7am as we did today. We took a quick obligatory photo in front of the sign that tells us the distance to Santiago de Compostela.

Then it was off to Zubiri in the dark.

About 3k after leaving Roncesvalles, we came to the charming town of Burguete and a bar! (Remember, Bar means cafe in Spain). I had a cafe Americano and a banana and took a pain au chocolate (sorry don’t know the name in Spanish) for the road.

The town of Burguete was just lovely.

Espinal was the next town just another 3.6k later and it too was charming.

Most of our walking was done on paths similar to what we might walk on in Vermont. Some of it reminded me of the mountain bike trails behind Flatbread, especially when a group of biking pilgrims came riding past.

Soon it was time for another break and low and behold, there was a bar right when we needed it in Viscaretta (Bizkarreta in Basque). I ate the pain au chocolate from earlier and washed it down with a coke.

Looking at an elevation map, it doesn’t seem like today should have been so tough, but it felt I was constantly going uphill. And, unlike yesterday, there were no wide expanses; nothing you could gage distance with. You just had to keep putting one foot in front of the other and relish the short breaks and the scenery.

Our last stop before Zubiri was at a food truck on the side of the road. A fellow pilgrim introduced me to Aquarius. It is like a “light” Gatorade and comes in lemon and orange. It is very refreshing.

The toughest part of the day was the last 3.5k into Zubiri. It was downhill, at times steep and what made it really challenging was the ledge and huge rocks underneath that were jutting out diagonal to the path. (I was so focused on getting the heck down that I didn’t take picture to prove my fears to be true.).

The path itself was full of rocks and I had to carefully pick my way down (did I mention how much I LOVE my trekking poles?). A couple of times I banged the front of my foot against one of those immovable rocks and I knew it wasn’t going to be good.

No, I did not get a pedi and have my big toes painted blue.

We will see how those big toes are doing over the next few days. Otherwise my feet are doing great. I was lucky to have been able to work out the kinks (well most of them) with foot issues during my training at home. Others were not and many are struggling with blisters.

I was so happy to see the town of Zubiri! During our last break I told one of my fellow pilgrims that I thought I would try to get a private room tonight. I have barely slept the past three nights and felt that a good night’s sleep would help me a lot. Henry suggested I call for a reservation before getting into town and I am happy I did. I got the last private room at one of the Alburgues I had hoped to stay at. I feel like I am in heaven!

I have my own room and there is a shared kitchen and bathroom. AND a laundry machine. This is living!!!

After a shower I planned to go to the bar two doors down and get something to eat (since I only had a banana and that pain au chocolate today) and I would get to bed really early. But, there were some folks in my Camino family drinking a beer and soon I was making plans for the pilgrim meal with several of them at 7.

Reflections

While the Camino family idea felt forced and a bit uncomfortable to me the first couple of days, as we are starting to get into a groove, it is amazing how many people I keep bumping into that I know and it is so great to see them and catch up.

The one thing that is interesting is you never know when you may see someone for the last time. An injury could set someone a day or two behind, or someone could choose to stay somewhere for two nights to rest and explore (for example, that could happen tomorrow in Pamplona). Or, someone just might not be enjoying a section and taxi or bus ahead. We are all staying in different places and eating in different restaurants. It actually is quite amazing that we all keep bumping into each other when we do!

So, I am savoring every moment, living in the present because that is all I can be sure of. In fact, it is all that any of us can be sure of.

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I expected today to be the most challenging over my 16 day Camino. While we had half of the 1200 meter elevation under our belts on the first day, today involved the remaining 600 meters elevation plus the descent into Roncesvalles.

We left at 8 which was sunrise and up we went. There is no way to capture the beauty of this walk over the Pyrenees with a picture or video because you can’t feel the wind, smell the fresh clean air or heat the sheep and horse bells that are constantly chiming all around you.

The first landmark was Pic d’Orisson with a well-photographed statue of the Virgin Mary. While I am not doing this pilgrimage for religious reasons, I very much respect that for many this is a holy experience and has been since the beginning of the Camino. So I was touched to see this icon standing at what seemed to be the top of the world.

The sheep everywhere are just beautiful. Last night we got to see a herd driven through where we were staying.

The picture above was taken by a fellow pilgrim, Christine Brown.

I couldn’t stop my self from taking pictures every time I saw a flock.

I was feeling pretty damn good and the view makes the challenge so much easier.

At one point a group a six cars each with four passengers, drove by. Clearly they were tourists. There are all kinds of ways to do the Camino.

Annette, the young German girl who was my bunk mate last night, zoomed past me. Check out the size of that bag! 50 +10 liters! Oh to be young!

And we walked and walked and then, is that a food truck or is it a mirage?

It was perfect timing for a second breakfast, which is typical on the Camino. It was perfect for me since I can’t eat right when I get up. I was thrilled to be able to buy a chunk of sheep’s milk cheese and bread. It was a perfect snack along with a cup of coffee.

The only complaint I have with the food truck is the promising map that showed 1km up, 5km flat and 5km down. It really wasn’t 5km flat; in fact it was uphill. Gradual, but uphill!

Water is readily available throughout the Camino. This is the Fountain of Roland and the water was cool and refreshing.

Next came a major point on the Camino Frances…it crosses into Spain! I made it to the Navarre region of Espana!

We walked through a beech forest for a while. The shade was wonderful.

With Roncesvalles in our site we just needed to safely negotiate the downhill and we would be at our home for the night.

Total walking time was about 6.5 hours.

Dinner was delicious. The best yet.

€10 for the pilgrim meal. With wine.

After the meal we went to the Pilgrim Blessing in the cathedral. While this isn’t a religious experience for me, I will take everything I can get to help me power on.

Reflections

I am proud of myself. Not only in the walk I did today but in the training I did to be able to make this trek. It paid off!

Our Camino family is forming. It is great meeting so many people from all around the world. Most are very good with English, thank goodness.

I wasn’t sure I would like alburgue living but it isn’t bad and it is a great way to meet others. I mean, when else will I be able to bunk with three very cute 20-something Spanish men who had no problem undressing right in front of me. They were very sweet to me and even gave me earplugs…little do they know that I myself am a pretty good snorer!

Today was relatively short (as planned) and straight up (or so it felt). Kudos to Pastor Kurt for suggesting I train on Dump Road; today’s walk was steep (“but I’ve trained for this” which has become my mantra). I still have another 18k tomorrow before I can pat myself on the back for conquering the Pyrenees. Tomorrow’s uphill is another 600 meters but it is more gradual. The real challenge will be the “treacherous” downhill into Roncesvalles where I am staying tomorrow night.

Today’s Walk

I simply need to follow the arrows and I will find my way to Burgos (where I hope to get before my 16 days are up).

So I exited through the gates of St Jean Pied de Port, crossed the iconic bridge and I was off.

Leaving town I found the road steep and thought, “ah, this is what Kurt was talking about.” Ha! That uphill was merely a preview.

My Buen Camino App knew what was in store for me and the notification made me laugh, kind of. I had no idea I would get this messages from the app. Can’t wait to get the next one.

Up, up, up.

And soon, the town I had just left, was but a small dot in my sight.

Most of the walking was on pavement, but there was a shortcut through grazing pastures that was open for pilgrims so I took it. The climb reminded me of the hike up to Stark’s Mountain toward the very top. The views were stunning and made me forget how strenuous the walking was.

There was encouragement along the way.

And just when I thought today’s walk wasn’t going to quit, I turned the corner and saw my gite (French for hostel) for the night, the Orisson Refuge.

After checking in I had a well-earned sandwich of baguette, jamon and cheese along with a beer. Then I had dessert which was basque cake which I really enjoyed and will need to try to make at home.

All the newbie pilgrims are working hard to get into a routine, which, for most is check-in and then shower, do laundry and get lunch or a snack.

Tuesday, Arrival in Saint Jean Pied de Port

I didn’t have time for an update yesterday so here is a summary. I flew on Monday night from Boston to Paris and then took East Jet to Biarritz in Southern France. I took a shuttle (Express Bourricot) St Jean where I checked into the Beilari Gite.

Six of the eight shuttle members. We walked around town together and visited the Pilgrim Office to check in and get our credentials.

I bought trekking poles (didn’t want to have to check my luggage hence didn’t bring my sticks from home) and walked around the town a bit and then it was time for a communal dinner at the gite where the hospitelaro, Joseph, did a great job making the 20 of us feel at home and feel like we knew each other. As he said, it was our first “Camino family.” Elizabeth, the cook, prepared a beautiful meal.

I got my first sello (stamp in the credential which is required to stay in pilgrim alburges) at the Pilgrim Office.

Reflection

I was eager to get going today and decided to walk alone. I don’t think it is a coincidence that I did most of my training solo. I really enjoy the solitude and being able to go at my own pace. I definitely feel that the older I get, the more introverted I become.

As I sit here there is a beautiful breeze and the scenery is spectacular. In the mountains below there are cows with bells that are ringing and it is beautiful.

Oh, and the ear plugs I brought to drown out snorers…apparently I need to give those to my roommates because “I” am the snorer. Ray has told me this, but I never believed him.