I woke up this morning to rain and the forecast wasn’t promising. I am done being afraid of the rain and now and just sick and tired of it. I walked the entire day in rain that ranged from a drizzle to a downpour. At times the wind picked up to add to the excitement.
I awoke in the country estate where I spent the night and Nyan who is the cook made me a wonderful breakfast of eggs and toast and I supplemented it with some cheese and jamon.
I ate breakfast with the only other guest in the lodge, Alexei, a Russian who now lives in Germany and has a luxury car service that he operates all over Europe this week he is helping a group of 6 people walk the Camino from Sarria to Santiago. He is basically a high end version of the Magic Bus which I am happy to report I did not see today!
By 8 I was in Hassan’s Escalade and he whisked me into town and dropped me off a “little further ahead” than where he picked me up and we hugged goodbye. I would highly recommend every pilgrim treat themselves to a night at Pazo de Laia in Palas de Rei!
Hassan and Nyan
This was going to be a long day and the rain doesn’t help at all. But I got into the biggest town I would be in today, Melide, before noon.
The entry into town was reasonably short and crossed over a beautiful bridge.
It seems like a cool town and I regretted not staying here, but it would have meant another day before I would get to Santiago so I pressed on. I got a stamp in my credential at the first church on my way into town and the last one as I left.
I did stop for a coffee and Aquarius at a Pulperia. The place is right on the corner and the guy is cooking the Pulpo right in an open window and encouraging people to come in. I was still full from my breakfast so I passed on the octopus.
Today was a series of small villages with farms, fields and forests in between. At one point I was overwhelmed with the scent of early mint. I believe it was from Eucalyptus trees. They are extremely tall and all of their foliage and branches are at the tops of the trees so I wasn’t able to touch or smell any leaves directly.
The eucalyptus trees at the very tall ones without bark. They are very interesting but not indigenous to the area and are invasive. I do want to applaud the reforestation efforts in Spain. I have seen examples throughout the Camino and read an article that Spain is a world leader in trying to rebuild their forests.
This stone crossing is a great example of the infrastructure in place to help pilgrims cross rivers.
There was a woman with a small fruit stand selling water, fruit and homemade baked goods. I was thrilled to see she had some roasted chestnuts and bought a small cup of them to snack on.
With the rain and the never ending string of villages, I have severe “are we there yet” syndrome. The afternoon just dragged on and on. The scenery could have been just gorgeous in better weather.
Finally I reached my destination for the night Rabidiso. But it wasn’t without just a few parting shots. First, the Alburgue isn’t in the actual town. It is further up the Way at the top of what felt like a really steep hill. Then you come to a busy road that the Camino Gods do NOT want you to cross. Instead, you must walk another probably .25km to reach a tunnel under the road. So close yet to far!
I was a drowned rat when I arrived but the people running the Alburgue and bar were very welcoming. There was a blazing pellet stove that was inviting.
I am staying in a 6-bed dorm (to balance my night of luxury in Palas de Rei). After I took a shower I put all of my clothes in the dryer and had linner.
Yes those are rubber like sheets. Uncomfortable to sleep in but safer for preventing bed bugs.
lights were out in our room at 9! Just two more days!
Wow, you are so close. I hope the rain abates and that last night was the last one on rubber sheets!
The rubber mattress is a little weird, but it allows them to be wiped down and disinfected every day. Bed bugs. Are a problem on the Camino. I have seen a few people who have them and it isn’t fun. The bites itch a lot and you have to completely clean all of your stuff including your pack and dry them on high heat.
Hi Robin. Are those elevated rectangular structures for grain storage?
It is raining here too, but I’m inside!
I find at the end of a day of riding I’m like a horse heading for a barn making a beeline for my “oats” while Dave still manages to enjoy the last few miles. 🙂
Nancy
Yes Nancy. Those structures are Horreos and the are for grain storage. It seems almost every house has one.
Robin – how are you keeping your feet dry or at least blister-free? We’re in Oregon now in the middle of a stretch of rainy and windy weather but Gail has muck boots and I have Neos overshoes I put over my hiking boots if we’re going out to take photos in the elements – these options work unless a sneaker wave comes in and over tops the boots – but these are not options for you since you can just carry so much…yikes – thinking about you! Buen Camino…
I was super careful not to step in any puddles. My sticks helped a lot with that. I also have waterproof shoes with goretex and wear wool socks and if they do get wet I make sure they dry overnight. I am pretty sure if they had gotten wet, I would have had blisters.
A guy I met at the airport in Boston who was on his way to the Camino also told me he uses waterproof socks and that they work well. I am going to need to look into them for my next adventure!